Last weekend, I kicked off a new recurring series that examines costumes worn by a variety of actors in Twin Peaks. That first Costuming Peaks story looked at Audrey Horne’s outfits in the Pilot Episode. Today, I’m examining her looks from Season 1 – Episodes 1001 to 1007. Grab your saddle shoes and let’s go!
COSTUMING TEAM
A new costuming team took over duties for the first two seasons of the show – Costume Designer Sara Markowitz and Costume Supervisor Laurie L. Hudson.
Markowitz, whose other credits include Bill & Ted’s Excellent Adventure, Coyote Ugly, Boy Meets World and The Big Bang Theory, gives credit to Patty Norris’ designs from the Pilot in Brad Dukes’ “Reflections: An Oral History of Twin Peaks.”
“Patty [Patricia Norris, production designer and costume designer] had done a beautiful job of starting to lay the foundation of who the characters were, which was a great jumping-off point for me.”
Markowitz collaborated closely with David Lynch, Mark Frost and the actors to ensure they felt comfortable in the clothing she selected.
“David felt very strongly the colors and textures had to match the environment. The big challenge was not to have everyone in plaid shirts and corduroy pants,” said Markowitz in a Los Angeles Times article from May 9, 1990.
Supposedly, Sara created glasses with coral-colored filters when she acquired many of the items to ensure outfits would compliment the on-screen colors of Twin Peaks.
‘‘We didn`t press the clothes every day. I like wrinkles. They had fuzz balls, threads hanging,” continued Markowitz in a Chicago Tribune story also from May 9, 1990. ”We wanted characters to look like real people, not like they`re wearing costumes.”
LAURIE HUDSON
EPISODE 1001
”Audrey is daddy`s little girl, the sweet, innocent Catholic school kind of girl. The other side of her is the red shoes,” Markowitz continued in the Chicago Tribune article. ”She wants to be Laura Palmer. She wants her daddy to give her that kind of attention. She wants him to take her horseback riding and sing to her. . . . If she can`t get positive attention, then she`ll go for negative attention. She wears the plaid pleated skirts with the tight sweaters. It`s like yin and yang.”
I love that vintage, tree-pattern sweater, which fellow Bookhouse Gal 1400 River Road first identified in this article.
“Audrey’s sweater is from a company called Darlene Knitwear, inc. It appears to have been made in the early ’60s. The label says Minklam by Darlene. So far I’ve seen Minklam by Darlene and Angelon by Darlene, which apparently were the names given to their particular fiber blends. The tags say they are ‘hand-screen print’ sweaters.”
I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention that Canada hat to the left of Cooper. I need to find that for another story.
We again see Audrey’s saddle shoes while she’s dancing her father’s office. The shoes, which Lynch insisted on having for the Pilot, look traditional from a distance.
According to the Chicago Tribune story, looking closer at the shoes “you find they are not quite the real thing. In fact, they aren’t saddle shoes at all. They’re plain white shoes painted with the black pattern.”
EPISODE 1002
Audrey is still sporting her tree-pattern sweater at the beginning of Episode 1002. The Horne family are gathered around a dining room table (which is really the same set as Ben Horne’s office) when Uncle Jerry returns from Paris bearing baguettes with brie and butter.
We don’t see the above publicity shot of Sherilyn Fenn as Audrey Horne (courtesy of The Mauve Zone). It’s great to see that sweater one final time.
After church, Audrey Horne visits the Double D Diner sporting a black overcoat, pleated plaid skirt and maroon sweater. This scene was shot on December 7, 1989.
After sharing details about her crush on Agent Cooper with Donna Hayward, Audrey dancing to dreamy music.
Dreamy for sure! According to Fenn in Dukes’ book, Lynch rewrote this scene while on set.
“The day where Audrey dances in the diner I came the set and David said, ‘W’re going to get some cappuccinos and rewrite this scene and at the end you’re just gonna stand up and start to groove to this really cool, sexy, jazzy thing that Angelo and I just wrote! It’s Audrey’s theme, you’re just gonna get los in that music!'”
Audrey Horne waits for Cooper’s arrival in the Great Northern Hotel dining room at the beginning of Episode 1003.
Notice she has traded the saddle shoes for her red heels from the Pilot Episode.
Sherilyn Fenn is wearing the same outfit in this publicity shot that also includes Lara Flynn Boyle and James Marshall. Interestingly, the outfits the latter two are wearing won’t be seen until Episode 1006. The outfit Sherilyn is wearing is never seen at the Double R Diner.
According to Getty Images, this shot was taken on Tuesday, December 12, 1989. As mentioned above, Lynch shot scenes at the Double R Diner for Episode 1002 the week prior.
EPISODE 1003
Before Laura Palmer’s funeral, we see Audrey’s funeral attire.
Audrey passes by her father’s office on the way to her secret spot to watch Dr. Jacoby and Johnny Horne.
Shots of Audrey at Laura Palmer’s funeral in Episode 1003 are mostly close ups. Director Tina Rathborne told Dukes that she shot “some long tracking shots of the cast walking toward Laura’s casket.” None of them were used in the episode. It was Editor Toni Morgan’s idea to only use close-ups.
Audrey’s outfit is briefly scene as Bobby loses his cool during the funeral.
A better look of Ms. Horne’s outfit is found in this publicity shot from the funeral scene.
The Mauve Zone also shared this outtake of Sherilyn captured during a previous Twin Peaks Fan Festival. You can see a crew member’s hand holding lighting pole behind her.
EPISODE 1004
Audrey is seen smoking in the Twin Peaks High School girl’s bathroom in Episode 1004.
This outfit is only seen once in the series.
Audrey returns to her innocent school girl look when she confronts her dad about helping with the family business. She’s even sporting the saddle shoes again.
During this scene, we also catch a glimpse of a photo from Laura and Audrey’s ski trip. One thing to note about the photo is Audrey’s “rabbit ears” above Laura’s head. I never noticed them until researching this article.
Here’s a better look at that photo courtesy of The Mauve Zone.
There are several outtakes from this photoshoot taken by Paula K. Shimatsu-u.. In one, we can see Audrey wearing red gloves which are the same red gloves she’s wearing when giving her friend bunny ears in the photo. Is it really about the bunny then?
EPISODE 1005
Agent Cooper only has time for coffee when Audrey approaches him at the beginning of Episode 1005.
Their outfits match this publicity shot that, according to Getty Images, was either taken on November 20 or December 12, 1989. I’m leaning toward the November date as several other scenes from this episode were shot during that week.
Audrey is sporting the same outfit seen in Episode 1005 as seen in the publicity image below.
This image, along with several similar shots, were given a November 20 shoot date. We can see her saddle shoes again. Most likely the pie on the booth table is the same one that is on the table with Agent Cooper in the previous publicity shot.
When Audrey visits Emory Battis at Horne’s Department Store, she is wearing a black dress with buttons.
But later in the episode, she has changed back into the outfit she wore when speaking with Cooper during breakfast. This time, she added a green cardigan sweater.
This very well could have been Sherilyn Fenn’s own clothing which she wore for the Pilot Episode. Notice how the skirt matches the publicity shot and she is carrying a green sweater as she leaves the Great Northern Hotel.
Ms. Fenn responded to the previous article via Twitter stating she used her “clothes, for the most part.”
By the end of Episode 1005, Audrey is found in Agent Cooper’s bed without clothes (or so the scene seems to imply).
EPISODE 1006
Back to Battis’ office in Episode 1006 with Audrey wearing a black, two-piece suit that’s different than the dress in Episode 1005.
While at the perfume counter in Horne’s Department Store, we see Audrey is wearing a pink sweater under the suit jacket
Saddle shoe alert! They are back as Audrey slips a note under the door to Room 315 at the Great Northern Hotel.
She’s still wearing the same outfit from Horne’s Department Store as she prepares to go north to One Eyed Jack’s. I wonder if the pink sweater is the same one she wore in the Pilot (which would have been Sherilyn’s own sweater).
As Audrey meets Blackie at One Eyed Jack’s, she is wearing a revealing v-cut black dress with black pumps. The cherry stem knot-tying trick saves the day and she’s welcomed to the brothel.
EPISODE 1007
For Audrey’s One Eyed Jack’s corset outfit in Episode 1007, Sara Markowitz used lingerie from Playmates on Hollywood Boulevard according to the Los Angeles Time interview with Sara in May 1990.
“But she did do costumes once: wonderful, risque corsets, garter belts and stockings for women of the local brothel. The corsets, from Playmates, were appliquéd with playing card symbols and fully lined to get past the censor.”
Playmates of Hollywood, once located at 6438 Hollywood Boulevard in Los Angeles California, was housed in the Attie Building. Built in 1931, the shop sold lingerie and, later, platform shoes.
The Art Deco building exterior has an iconic 20-feet-by-30-foot mural titled “You Are a Star” by New Mexico artist Thomas Suriya. He was living with Michael Attie, the son of the previous building owners who eventually took over the family business. Attie commissioned the Suriya’s mural in 1983 about a year before the Los Angeles Summer Games of 1984. More recently, you could see the mural in La La Land.
Sadly, Playmates of Hollywood closed shop on March 23, 2018. You can, however, find them on Instagram – @PlaymatesOfHollywood.
The outfit was rather risqué for early 1990s television (then again ABC Television network eventually showed someone’s naked rear on NYPD Blue – I remember that was such a “thing.”).
With the help of an uncredited, director Lesli Linka Glatter, Audrey had a giant Queen of Diamonds card attached to the corset’s front.
It’s nice that the crew kept the Queen of Diamonds as Audrey’s card when Windom Earle was “playing cards” in Episode 2018.
I’m suddenly reminded of The Eagles’ “Desperado:”
Don’t you draw the Queen of Diamonds, boy
She’ll beat you if she’s able
You know the Queen of Hearts is always your best bet
Or if Audrey was writing the lyrics, “I’m Audrey Horne, and I get what I want.”
Stay tuned for a look at Audrey’s outfits from Season 2.
